Best of the Bunch: Tay Ho's Greatest Bun Cha

A friend returned from Ha Long Bay with news of an exotic meal. “They gave us this delicious soup, full of barbecued meat”, he recalled. “But there was this big, bouncing plate of cold noodles on the side. They were just weird.”

There’s only one hard rule about eating bun cha - Hanoi’s famous barbequed pork noodle soup - you take the noodles, and you put them in the broth.

After that there’s no right or wrong answer. A range of extra ingredients and fresh salad are provided, and it’s up to you to mix and match your way to noodly perfection (Two squeezes of lime, lettuce and a sprinkle of garlic, I think. But I’m never quite sure).

What am I looking for?

A generous serving of meatballs and meaty strips, grilled to a perfect char, which leave little flecks of barbecued smoky goodness in the broth. The soup itself should be a little sour, a little sweet, and not too heavy on fish sauce. A handful of thinly sliced green papaya and carrot, not too tough and crunchy, and we're away. (Good nem and tra da always a bonus.)

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The Leafy Ladies: Pho Hương Trang

70 Đường Tô Ngọc Vân (Same location as Valhalla Grill)

Opening Times: 11am-3pm

Bun Cha 35k, Nem 5k, Tra Da free

Admit it, you’ve ravished a few Valhalla grill burgers in your time here - but did you know that their Tô Ngọc Vân location transforms by day into a gem of a bun cha spot?

Leaves fall and westerners wander on this side road of To Ngoc Va, while Hương Trang's ladies produce fresh ingredients from pans, grills and steaming containers. This restaurant also does a killer Bun Ca (fish noodle), but today we’re here for the cha.

The meat here is blackened well on the barbecue, although I'd like a little more for the price. Broth is moreish and funky. Green papaya is generously chopped into big soft shards. Tea is the bitter pine-tree tasting kind, although it's free and you get to serve yourself from a big urn. Get here earlier than 1pm for nem - they had run out by the time I got here.

Bun Cha: 7/10

Location: 8/10

Tiny limes? Bountiful.

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The Pitstop: Bun Cha 35k

Ngõ 68 Yên Phụ

Opening Times: 8am-3pm

Bun Cha 35k, Nem 5k, Tra Da 4k

Don’t drive straight past this one as you're picking your way through Yen Phu's urban gauntlet- the lovely ladies of Bun Cha 35k serve up generous bowls of cha and meaty nem that more than justify the 5k extra price tag. Despite the near-constant stream of workers coming here for a quick lunch, the staff still find the time to smile and entertain my questions.

The bowl arrives with a bold waft of fruity smoke. The rich broth, combined with just-about-perfect meat (a big portion of bite size meatballs and tender pork strips, straight off the grill) makes for a hearty bowl of cha. Even the nem hide more meat than usual. If you need to fill your belly before driving into the big city, make a pitstop here.

Bun Cha: 8/10

Location: 7/10

Tiny limes? Unavailable.

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The New School: Friends Bun Cha

53 Âư Co (On the corner of Âư Co and Xuân Diệu)

Opening times: 08.30am - 10.30pm

Bun Cha 30k, Nem 10k, Tra Da 5k

A popular spot nestled on the busy junction of Au Co and Xuan Dieu streets, Friends Bun Cha claims to be the 'best in Hanoi' - a bold claim.

Cooked to order on a small BBQ grill just opposite the restaurant, the meat here is a high point - thin strips of pork and fresh, slightly herby meatballs. Some might like a little more char on their cha, but the taste and texture is hard to fault. Broth is clear and slightly sweet, and the nem are big and peppery (although they could do with a little more crunch).

The thunderous traffic of Au Co street is very close, but you can duck into the cosy interior if you want to eat in peace. With it's friendly service and English menus (and a menu including pork cutlets and salads), Friends may be a glimpse into the future of Hanoi street food. Is it Tay Ho's best, though? We've got a couple more to try.

Bun Cha: 8/10

Location: 6/10

Tiny limes? Pre-juiced in a little bowl. Unconventional.

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Bun Church: Bun Cha Van Quyet

1 Đặng Thai Mai

Opening times: 6am - 2pm

Bun Cha 30k, Nem 10k, Tra Da 5k

Dang Thai Mai street - the incongruous, jungle-y heart of Tay Ho, also home to what might be it’s best Bun Cha spot. Follow the grills' smoking chimney along the street into your new noodly church. Walk through the curtain of porky smoke and enter Van Quyet's long canopied hall. Worship at the altar of Bun Cha.

Soup is subtle but delicious, the perfect canvas for the provided extras. Great meatballs reveal a world of texture - charred shell, tender meat and melting fat. Some perfect little la lot rolls (I always think these taste like little Lincolnshite sausages) are a surprise but welcome addition. Crackly crispy nem are filled with meat and mushroom.

Bun Cha: 9/10

Atmosphere: 9/10

Tiny limes? Oh, but of course.

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Right at Home: Bun Cha 161

161 Âu Cơ (Just before the turn onto Alley 124)

Opening times: 6am - 2pm

Bun Cha 30k, Nem 10k, Tra Da 3k

Nip into this little spot near Alley 124 on Au Co if you've ever wanted to feel like part of a family (At least the kind that make barbecued pork and noodles every day.) Bun Cha here arrives prepared with an unusual broth, full of pepper and meaty flavours. Pretty delicious.

This is one of those homely places where you’re more or less eating in someone’s living room (complete with wooden furniture and paintings on the walls), which seems a little strange at first - but the warm welcome and exceptional presentation made me feel right at home.

Bun Cha: 8/10

Atmosphere: 8/10

Tiny limes? Just ask the fam.

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The Takeaway

It's not hard to find a good bowl of bun cha for lunch in Tay Ho. Some places barbecue to order all day, although a lot will stop cooking pork at around midday. It’s best to get there early to get the freshly prepared stuff (and most places tend to run out of nem early as well).

I went to more places than just these few - these were the ones that really tickled my limes. My favourite? You'll find me paying my respects at Bún Chả Vân Quyết again.

Personally I'm done with bun cha for at least a week and kind of craving a cheese sandwich. Next up for Ho Tay 50k is that other noodle staple - I'm gonna be slurping my way through the best Pho places this side of the lake. Peace!